Genoese border

3-1/4" x 134" (8.25cm x 340.36cm)

Very good condition considering the age and length of the piece. Cut both ends, and one scallop (63" from one end) is badly damaged. The rest appear intact except for occasional breaks especially in the dual vertical twisted pairs running down the upper center portion of the scallops. The connection section between the scallops, particularly the lowest plaited crossbar, is under a lot of tension and has frequently been damaged. A buttonholed bar often used as a repair. Only one original plaited bar between the 3rd and 4th points in the photo survives.
There is localized occasional faint browning, sometimes noticeable along the bottom of the scallops. There are three sections of a cut material attachment along the top of the length, as shown in the photo. The first runs from one end to 3", the second from 9.5" to 54.5", the third from 63" to 93", with no attachment for the final 41".

Lace thread: Linen, 2 Ply S, Single Z. Average=0.236mm Standard Deviation=0.034mm.

It is very possible that this is a Flemish lace, contemporary with the 17th c Genoese laces. In contrast to the heavy Genoese rose points, it has a light, open feel with finer threads. However, it is similar to plate 197 in Ricci "Old Italian Lace", particulary in the design of the upper band with the alternating circle and 'star' motif. The actual attribution is uncertain, but it will stay in the Genoese category for the moment.
There is evidence of either deliberate processing or some kind of wear, particularly in the connecting clothwork elements between the scallops. These have a compressed, matted appearance consistent with a dry pressing.

purchased 01/29/2019
first posted 11/05/2020
revised 08/18/2021